Lunch at Stefano Lubiana, Granton

Stefano Lubiana's wines (http://www.slw.com.au/slw/index.html) have forged an excellent reputation within Tasmania and the rest of Australia over the last twenty five years, so it was with great anticipation that the UMPHs headed to the company's winery and recently opened osteria - located in  Rowbottoms Road, Granton, twenty minutes' north of Hobart - for a lazy Sunday lunch.  Adding another degree of expectation was the fact that on the previous few times they had tried to get a table, the place had been booked solid.

For those of you who don't know what an osteria is, the uninitiated's best friends at Wikipedia advise that it's an Italian place serving wine and simple food.  (Google and Wiki to UMPH's rescue again!)  

So far, so good:  Lubiana's osteria, overlooking the River Derwent upstream of the Bridgewater Bridge, oozes Mediterranean style.  It also serves wine.  Very good wine indeed!  And simple food, too.

The osteria (internet Images)

  

The friendly waiter soon had the UMPHs seated and in no time had explained the chef's preference for local produce - much of it grown in the osteria's own garden - and that all the meals were good for sharing .  The antipasto plate - comprising of two styles of salami, smoked Ranoch Farm quail, polenta, white anchovies, a truffle-salted egg, green olive tapenade, Bay of Fires hard cheese, pickled vegies and ciabatta - particularly lent itself to being shared, he said, thus settling the UMPHs' entree choice.  A glass of Lubiana's Estate pinot noir and another of Reserve merlot were ordered by way of an accompaniment.

The antipasto arrived promptly, as did the wines.  The former was very good and the latter excellent, especially the merlot.  The ciabatta was also particularly enjoyable.  

The mains - Wallaby alla Griglia (marinated in blueberry and thyme, charcoal grilled and served with black lentils and beetroot relish) and Agnello all Griglia (charcoal grilled spring lamb loin, white bean salad and salsa verde) - arrived soon after.  The wallaby was good but, to be frank, the Republic Bar in Elizabeth Street, North Hobart, does a nicer version - a bigger portion, better seasoned, juicier and cheaper.  The lamb was an improvement but still not quite as good as it might have been.  The Republic, Roaring Grill (also in North Hobart), the New Sydney and any number of Hobart pubs do lamb at least as well.

None of this is to say that the food was bad.  It wasn't.  It's just that it could have been a little bit better.

The deserts - Pane Dolce e Crema al Limone (toasted brioche, lemon curd, vanilla gelato and amaretti crumbs) for Mrs, and Torta al Cioccolato (sasso pinot noir, chocolate and almond torte, spiced currants and mascarpone) for UMPH - were up with the entree's standard and a very pleasant way to finish the meal.  A glass of Jerry iced sauv blanc complimented the torta rather nicely.

The verdict?  On balance, very good but maybe not quite as good as the UMPHs had been hoping for.


U M P H. 

(uppermiddlepetrolhead.blogspot.com.au).