The Goliards and Tarraleah Village

Highland Cattle (Photo by DHR).

There’s a spot out the back of the Tarraleah cottages where, if you stand on one leg and pull the right sort of face, you can just pick up some mobile 'phone reception.  That makes the ex-Hydro village in the centre of Tasmania’s Highlands the ideal venue for a proper weekend getaway, in that you can let the outside world intrude … but only if you want to.

UMPH readers might recall that this isn’t the author's first foray to the area; he’s previously written about Targa Tasmania's Tarraleah stage, having propped on the side of the road just beyond the village to photograph the cars hurtling by, and he’s blogged of his experiences at Pump House Point, too.  This time, however, his activities were focused within Tarraleah itself.

His extended weekend began with a quickish drive from Hobart, the Galant pushing strongly for a very enjoyable 90 minute run through a great combination of open highway, sweeping bends and twisty forest sections.  The roads were dry and, fortunately, there was hardly any wildlife to worry about.  There were very few cars to impede progress, either.  The route is, however, likely to be well-known to regular readers by now, so he won't bore you with any further commentary than that.

As alluded to earlier, Tarraleah is an ex-Hydro Electric Commission town in the heart of Tasmania (http://www.tarraleah.com/).  What was once a bustling self-contained hub for all things hydro-electric is now relaxed tourist accommodation, featuring everything from a golf course, cafe, and restaurant bar to Art Deco cottages, hotel rooms and a very luxurious lodge, also in the Art Deco style, as well as a caravan park.  There's even a small herd of highland cattle, a la Hamish MacBeth.  Some of the accommodation is re-purposed, such as the Scholars' House, which is located in the original village school and the cottages, which were once the homes of managers, surveyors, engineers and their families. 

The Cottages (Photo by DHR).

The Lodge (photo by DHR).

The entire complex reeks of an earlier time when 'The Hydro', as it was known to Tasmanians, was a major employer and source of significant pride as the engine-room of the state's once flourishing manufacturing sector.  However, Tarraleah is now better known for being a great fishing and sightseeing hub, perched as it is on the edge of Tasmania's wilderness region, as well as being a welcome break for those travelling to or from the wild west coast.

It's also the preferred venue for the Goliards' annual Caulfield Cup Long Lunch, a celebration of food, wine, horse racing and banter.  This year's theme was terrines and roulades, with seven brave souls putting their cooking skills - and reputations - on the line in one of the kitchens of the two cottages that they'd taken over for the weekend.

With an entire day of cooking, eating and drinking ahead of them, the Goliards decided to let someone else do the work for them on their first night and had dinner at the Highlander Restaurant and Bar.  They were well pleased that they did, as the chef clearly knows his stuff;  UMPH's entree of Tasmanian scallops, mains of slow-cooked beef cheeks and the choc-orange tart he had for dessert were all excellent, as were the others' selections.

The second night saw the Goliards sampling whiskies in the Lodge under the tutelage of village manager Chrissie, who had herself grown up in Tarraleah when her father was a senior Hydro employee there.  She knows her drinks, too; as the owner of a winery in the Coal River Valley, she's certainly got the background for it.  The Lodge features an excellent selection of Scotch, Irish, Japanese, American and Tasmania tipples, all served in a stately setting complete with leather chesterfields and a roaring log fire.  It is to be recommended! 

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Please enjoy a few photographs of the Long Lunch:       

Nothing works better with oysters than Guinness.

Gorgonzola and fig roulade with oysters (and Guinness, of course!).

According to one Goliard, there isn't anything that doesn't taste better with a single malt.

Salmon mousse  with lemon tiramisu (yes, the Glen Grant was a great accompaniment).

A fifty-something teenager.

An oyster baron.

Pork and pistachio terrine.

Setting the table ...

Serving up ...

Beetroot, sweet potato and feta terrine wrapped in prosciutto.

Sandals and socks?  Mmm.

Pork, chicken and duck terrine.

The concentration.

Chocolate mousse and raspberry terrine with chocolate chips and an espresso glaze.

Prosecco and fruit terrine.

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Late Saturday evening saw the Long Lunch done for another year.  The food was great, the wines and whiskies wonderful and the company even more so.  And some people punt better than others ever imagined.

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UMPH decided to mix the return trip up a little, taking a right turn just on the Hamilton side of Ouse and travelling over the causeway that spans Meadowbank dam, through Ellendale and down to New Norfolk via Bushy Park.  It's a very enjoyable route offering lovely scenery, interesting roads and the opportunity to see some small rustic Tasmanian towns, as well as saving too much back-tracking on the return trip to Hobart.  It also goes past Redlands Estate's single malt whisky distillery.  Now there's an idea ...

U M P H. 

(uppermiddlepetrolhead.blogspot.com.au).